An original Victorian bar in historic Old City, Philadelphia.
I was in Old City this weekend, filming a movie.
It’s a noir thriller… A tale of intrigue and surprising revelations.
Written by me. Also, directed, by me. And (obviously) starring me.
In other words – I started my Halloween post. AND IT IS AWESOME.
(last year’s Halloween front porch)
I am single-handedly redefining the phrase – stupendous magnificence.
Not to mention the phrase – making a spectacle of myself.
Clearly, Sassafras, on 2nd street in Old City is the only suitable setting for my masterpiece.
Originally a Longshoremen’s bar, within walking distance to Front Street, and almost to the Delaware River.
It’s operated as a bar & restaurant (with a brief stint as a speakeasy) continuously since it was built – sometime around 1870.
The bar survived Prohibition, and the midcentury design-plague known as paneling… But it nearly did not survive my attempts to dismantle all of it and shove it in my handbag.
I whispered to Paul – go get your chisel. I need to take this tile home.
Then I climbed up on the bar and hugged it.
And yes, that IS the original tin ceiling. And also why I always carry a GIANT handbag.
Old City is a few small blocks in Philadelphia… full of historic buildings and cobblestone streets, bars and restaurants, art galleries and coffee shops, and the kind of boutique that only sells useless stuff.
I used to go out here ALL the time, back when I was cool.
That would have been the early 2000’s. An unfortunate time when techno music was really popular, so that anywhere you went, you could not hear yourself think.
I met Paul, right around the corner from here, at the now-defunct Five Spot.
You cannot know the depth of my love for this place, without understanding that my original plan was to go to The Ritz. And film in their lobby/bar… really fast… before getting kicked out.
I cannot say I was looking forward to that.
At all.
And then, it turns out that The Ritz has done something horribly misguided with their interior design. Something that involves mirrored cubes and purple uplighting, and apparently it has been like that for a while… So I guess my preproduction team needs to get out more.
So I posted on Facebook – does anyone have a contact at a classic bar or restaurant in the city?
And not even two hours later, a total stranger wrote – my best friend owns Sassafras.
Sort of like if I had posted for a leading man… And Channing Tatum had responded– also known as the best possible scenario.
Aside from having perfect taste in friends, my total-stranger savior writes a food and cocktail blog. And if you are having a holiday party, you should be making her recipe for autumn-spiced cocktails.
And then you should invite me (and Channing) over.
When I finally finished and got back to the car, it was just like old times– I got a parking ticket.
Unlike old times, I did not get towed. Or forget which lot I parked in.
Or get hit on by any lacrosse players.
Also unlike old times, I had a husband cameraman in tow… And he was irritated that I did not set the alarm on my phone, like he told me to, to remind us that the meter was going to expire.
I was like – seriously? Do you think Al Pacino is responsible for feeding the meter?
Probably not.
So… if you live in Philadelphia. Or sometimes go to Philadelphia. Or one time you visited Philadelphia… I would LOVE to hear your favorite place.
But please leave out anywhere that is so unbearably pretentious it makes my teeth hurt.
(I am talking to you, Stephen Starr.)
October 23, 2013 @ 4:22 pm
The last time I went drinking in Philadelphia was in my early 20’s and at Cavanaugh’s River Deck.
I’ll be in the corner alone with my shame now.
October 23, 2013 @ 10:56 pm
That place is gorgeous! And the detailing… makes me want to run my hands all over it. So stunning. Can’t wait to see what you have in store for Halloween!!
October 28, 2013 @ 4:53 pm
I was born and raised, and continue to live in the Philadelphia suburbs and could probably count on my hands the times I’ve been in Philadelphia. It’s embarrassing.
Just thinking about driving in Center City, or trying to find parking (anywhere), or missing the train makes me break out in a cold sweat. I am paralyzed with anxiety and worry every time I enter that damn city. Do you share my fears at all?
Because of my city driving aversion and lack of visiting, I’ve been anywhere often enough to warrant a favorite place. I’ve been to both the Spaghetti Factory and (now) Union Transfer, does that count? Philip’s cheesesteaks on Passyunk are delicious, but only when delivered to me by someone else that went there, or if someone else is driving.
Estia (not a Starr restaurant) has delicious fried cheese and something called a “purple french martini” that I could drink a gallon of. And I did, at a work christmas party.
Those are sadly all of my “philadelphia” thoughts.
November 12, 2013 @ 8:38 pm
I LOVE Garces Trading Co. I went there once when I was downtown for a work training and have been dreaming of their cheeses ever since. Would LOVE to go back!
January 18, 2014 @ 8:19 am
Hello, I’m already a fan but just wanted to let you know that I just googled Victorian coffee shops in Philly and this was the 4th hit and I laughed because I know your blog. Anyway I went to a Victorian cafe in south philly 10 or 12 years ago. Do you know it? I’m trying to find a place to take my mom. I may just take her here. Thanks!
January 18, 2014 @ 12:40 pm
I am happy to know I have fooled Google into thinking I am relevant!!
I am not familiar with South Philly anymore… I used to be, but it’s been a while since I’ve been in the “know” about anywhere good. Whenever I go to the fabric district, I do see plenty of cute cafés/coffee shops… But cannot endorse any of them.
I don’t know what the chances are that you were thinking of The Pink Rose pastry shop, but they have closed.
April 1, 2014 @ 3:28 pm
When I am down in that area I usually stop into the Las Vegas Lounge on 7th and Chestnut. Not a fancy place but the food is good and they offer 20 oz craft beers and have a couple of pool tables and TV’s.
March 8, 2016 @ 4:04 pm
So… I found your blog three days ago and I’ve been obsessively reading your blog from the very beginning instead of watching my pharmacy school lectures. This does not bode well for my next round of exams.
But I love you. I love your writing. I love your style.
And I love Philly (which is funny because I’ve never lived there but I dated a boy who did for a very long time).
And I love this bar. SO MUCH! I ended one of the best nights of my life here.
So. I decided to finally STOP lurking and say something.
You’re a Goddess.